Back in the glory days of Hollywood, all of the big award shows took place at banquets where showbiz titans washed down hefty servings of filet mignon and lobster with gallons of the finest bubbly.

During World War II, the Oscars figured it would look rather tacky for the pampered Beverly Hills set to be feasting so luxuriously in public while America's soldiers in Europe barely survived on Spam and Hershey's bars. Of course, they didn't give up their party totally. They just pushed it out of public view — thus creating the private Governors' Ball after the show, a tradition that continues to this day.

Meantime, the awards ceremony moved to an auditorium, which was a much better setting for lots of reasons. It could accommodate more industry attendees and it was better suited to the invasion of TV cameras in the early 1950s. The Emmys and Grammys weren't launched till after World War II, so they weren't under pressure to look humble. Thus the early ceremonies of both took place at banquets, but they dropped all that by the time the Vietnam War rolled around.

Today the Golden Globes are the last of the original big award shows still staged at a banquet. They didn't really become a big deal till after World War II and their voters -- members of the foreign press -- never felt the need to fret over how they appeared to others while America fought wars since.

The new Critics' Choice Awards are trying to bring back the banquet tradition, but, to be honest, there was some grumbling the other night over the small-but-tasty portions served on plates during the kudos presentation.

That never happens at the Golden Globes. Here is what is on the menu for Monday's gala:

First course: papaya and Asian pear salad with Indochina-spiced jumbo shrimp and chili-lime-cilantro dressing.

Second course: sautéed fillet of Chilean sea bass with shitake mushroom a la crème and grilled niçoise herb-crusted beef tenderloin; asparagus, spinach and shallots in pastry; baby carrots and garlic croquette light cream of red wine tarragon sauce.

Third course: Golden Chocolate Globe filled with white chocolate macadamia nut mousse and yellow sponge cake served on a raspberry red carpet.

Photo: The main course (above left) is just one of three dinner portions served during the Globes gala. The sweet topper (right) has a cinematic theme.
(Beverly Hilton Hotel)